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Sewing for Plus Sizes

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Sewing for Plus Sizes
by Barbara Deckert
Paperback

Everyone looks great in clothes that fit, no matter what your size. If ready-to-wear doesn't do it for you, let Barbara Deckert teach you how to sew for your plus-size body. She will guide you through the process of selecting designs, fabrics, and colors that flatter plus- and super-size figures. In addition, you'll get great techniques for sizing up any pattern (even those fancy designer ones!), special concerns for plus-size sewers, and lots of hints and advice make this the most useful sewing book you'll ever own.

'Clothing is about more than how you look. Others may judge us by the clothes we wear, and not having attractive, fashionable clothes that fit can contribute to body hatred. Clothing is about power, and Sewing for Plus Sizes is about empowering women to look at their large bodies with love.'

-- Lynn McAfee, Director, Medical Advocacy, Council on Size & Weight Discrimination

'Barbara shares her upbeat philosophy on creating flattering, well-proportioned, and properly fitted clothes for plus sizes. She then thoroughly explains a wide range of pattern adjustments, and, for good measure, includes a wealth of solid sewing advice.'

-- Susan Khalje, author of Bridal Couture and Linen and Cotton

'Just as Barbara Deckert says, 'Good fit makes you feel great!' and this book is a reflection of the new evolution that you can create your own 'style beyond size.' This is a must-have for all women size 14 and up who sew or want to work with a tailor or seamstress. More important, women with curves are given the tools to create a great fitting wardrobe and join 'The New Shape in Fashion.''

-- Michele Weston, Fashion and Style Director, Mode magazine

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Everyone looks great in clothes that fit, no matter what your size. If ready-to-wear doesn't do it for you, let Barbara Deckert teach you how to sew for your plus-size body. She will guide you through the process of selecting designs, fabrics, and colors that flatter plus- and super-size figures. In addition, you'll get great techniques for sizing up any pattern (even those fancy designer ones!), special concerns for plus-size sewers, and lots of hints and advice make this the most useful sewing book you'll ever own.

'Clothing is about more than how you look. Others may judge us by the clothes we wear, and not having attractive, fashionable clothes that fit can contribute to body hatred. Clothing is about power, and Sewing for Plus Sizes is about empowering women to look at their large bodies with love.'

-- Lynn McAfee, Director, Medical Advocacy, Council on Size & Weight Discrimination

'Barbara shares her upbeat philosophy on creating flattering, well-proportioned, and properly fitted clothes for plus sizes. She then thoroughly explains a wide range of pattern adjustments, and, for good measure, includes a wealth of solid sewing advice.'

-- Susan Khalje, author of Bridal Couture and Linen and Cotton

'Just as Barbara Deckert says, 'Good fit makes you feel great!' and this book is a reflection of the new evolution that you can create your own 'style beyond size.' This is a must-have for all women size 14 and up who sew or want to work with a tailor or seamstress. More important, women with curves are given the tools to create a great fitting wardrobe and join 'The New Shape in Fashion.''

-- Michele Weston, Fashion and Style Director, Mode magazine

Additional Information

Additional Information

SKU THR73070651
Table Of Contents Introduction

1 SEWING IS THE SOLUTION

You are what you wear
Why you can't find clothes that fit
Good fit makes you feel great!
Sewing: The smart and satisfying solution
Fashion figures for plus sizes

2 LET'S GIVE THEM SOMETHING TO LOOK AT!

What to expect when you sew your own clothes
The components of design
Analyzing proportion and line in pattern designs
About your underwear
Listen to your compliments

3 TOOLS FOR PLUS-SIZED SEWING

Furniture
Sewing machines
Measuring and drafting tools
Cutting tools
Marking tools
Pressing tools
Hand tools
Dress forms for plus sizes

4 CHOOSING FABRIC FOR PLUS-SIZED DESIGNS

Fibers
Making your fabric choice
Underlinings, linings, and interfacings for plus-sized designs
The quest for quality

5 ADJUSTING THE PATTERN TO FIT YOUR BODY SIZE

Standardized sizing is a misnomer
Your body isn't ideal, it's real: sizing up
Understanding ease
A note on pants
Safety first

6 ADJUSTING THE PATTERN TO FIT YOUR FIGURE VARIATIONS

Bust adjustments
Rounded upper back
Large upper arms
Large buttocks
Large or hanging belly
Large neck
Large legs
Swayback
Hyperextended calves

7 DESIGN MODIFICATIONS FOR PLUS SIZES

Waistbands
Adding pleats to pants
Reinforced seams
Shoulder pads
Closure placement
Button placement
The magic of gussets
Slits and vents
Adapting basic patterns to make other garments

8 A BASTED FITTING: THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT RIGHT!

Basting the garment for a fitting
Fitting from the waist up
Fitting from the waist down
After the fitting

Appendix A: Fashion figures for plus-sized designs

Appendix B: How to find, select, and work with a custom clothier

Further Reading

Resources

Index
Intro Every once in a while, as I'm racing through my local mall to the sewing store, some stranger stops me, compliments my outfit, and asks me where I bought it. I'm always flabbergasted when this happens because the stranger is always thin to average in build, while I wear about a size 32. Sometimes Bad Barbara wants to come out and reply, 'Honey, it doesn't come in your size,' but then Good Barbara prevails and offers the woman a business card.

For a variety of reasons, the ready-to-wear industry has failed to meet even our most basic clothing needs. Once, while checking the directory at the same mall, a gentleman asked me which shops sold plus-sized clothing; he was looking for a gift for his fianc’©e. I named the three that did out of hundreds in the mall and told him the size range for each. 'That's not going to help,' he said, 'she's a size 32.' He was shocked when I replied, 'So am I!' (Fooled him, too!) This fellow confided that his fianc’©e -- a woman with a loving man in her life and enough strength and savvy to support herself with a home-based business -- seldom left her home because she felt she had nothing decent to wear. Because I've been sewing for more than 30 years, and even though I've worn every size from a 12 to a 32, I have never experienced that kind of social isolation. I have never hesitated to live my life fully because I had nothing to wear.

These incidents made me realize that I knew how to do something that many women do not. I know how to make comfortable clothes that enhance my appearance, are suitable for the occasion, and improve my self-esteem to the point that not only is my size not an issue, but also sometimes it isn't noticed at all.

If you are among the 1 in 15 women in this country who sew -- and that's at least 4-1/2-million plus-sized sewers -- you can have any garment you want: any size, style, fabric, color, and designer name with comfortable and flattering fit. You no longer have to make do with the kind of ugly, ill-fitting, bulletproof-polyester circus costumes sold in many plus-sized shops and catalogs.

You only need basic sewing skills to use this book. If you haven't sewn for a while, brush up on your skills, get your machine tuned and lubed, and check out the chapter on tools so that you'll have what you really need. Please give yourself permission to make mistakes; we all do, and that's how we learn.

Even if you do not yet sew, the information on design, fabric, and fitting will make you a better-informed consumer of ready-to-wear. You can also use the appendix to hire a dressmaker to harvest the benefits of custom clothing without actually doing the work.

A Note on Nomenclature
I have used a variety of expressions to describe plus sizes, all of which fall short of semantic success. 'Plus sized' begs the question 'Plus what size?' Are thin and average women 'minus sized?' The expression 'full figured' sounds as if you must be voluptuously busty to qualify. 'Women's' denotes all adult females, and I wouldn't call small or average women 'little girls.' 'Queen sized' is simply silly. 'Super sized' sounds like fast food. 'Large' or 'big' are fairly neutral and merely descriptive. Although 'fat' is no more than a physical attribute, like eye color, many readers initially feel uncomfortable about calling themselves fat. One pithy nugget frequently expressed by size acceptance advocates, with tongue firmly in cheek, is ''Fat' is not a four-letter word; 'thin' is.' A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.
ISBN 978-1-56158-551-9
Video No
Author Barbara Deckert
Publication Year 2001
Dimensions 8-1/2 x 11
Pages 160
Photo color
Drawings and drawings
Other Formats No
Cover Paperback
Format Paperback
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